Friday, May 19, 2006

Arabic Pop


A Survey of Arabic (Pop) . . .


Syrians - and perhaps the whole Arab world - consume an enormous amount of music. Unlike the privacy of ipods, recorded music here is very much a public affair, pouring out of homes, balconies, car stereos, restaurants, and little shops.

For those vaguely familiar with music in the Arab world, the following should be well known, however, it might surprise you, dear reader, if you haven't had the chance to travel to the Middle East. The two undisputed holy icons of Arabic music - Umm Kulthum and Fairuz - still have an amazing hold on the daily listening habits of the Arab world. In the widely used beginner Arabic text books in the US - Al-Kitaab - both singers are featured with information and a little sample of each. At the time, I didn’t understand the term famous in regards to Kulthum and Fairuz and considered the information on these two women as merely an educational tool and not so much as a cultural insight.

Let me be clear, these women are, as John Lennon stated at the height of Beatle-mania, we're bigger than Jesus . . . granted this isn't an impressive feat in the largely Muslim Arab world. Nonetheless, it is difficult for me to express how fully established these two singers are people's daily lives. Fairuz in the morning; Umm Kulthum at night; this is a common statement I've heard here. Everyone here - but me - can sing along with these songs. Following the death of Umm Kulthum, Cairo experienced the among the largest funerals in world history - four million people poured out into the streets. The United States has nothing, even close, to the fame of these two women. Sure, Beatle-mania was huge, but imagine if IT NEVER STOPPED and the screaming kids stopped screaming but didn't find new music, imagine if you still heard "A Hard Day's Night" and "Let it Be" regularly for the next 40 years.

New Arabic music, Arabic pop, is far from the glory days dismissed (but watched) by the older folks, but enjoyed more by the younger kids. That's another thing, the gaps in personal taste or generational listening demographics doesn't seem to be as pervasive here. Adults, grown-ups listen and watch the new, slick, MTV style pop music. Much different in the states wherein most folks over 40 don't want to listen to Jay-Z. HOVE!

No voice, no clothes. I've head this as a description of many of these singers (female) mostly coming from Lebanon but not entirely. Who's who of Arabic pop? Well, with 14 different music video channels (really, and I get limited/crappy satellite service) I've gotten a taste of some of the 'hot' Arabic pop these days. Here's a few Arab Pop Stars:

Nancy Ajram: She’s a cute little singer from Lebanon. Her new big song is Yatabtab Wa Dalla3 - yes, with a three - it makes sense in Arabic. Anyway, I think this translates to "Pat-Pat and Cuddle-Cuddle." I can't get this song out of my head. I like Nancy. She's not a huge talent or anything, but I find her fun. Nancy is signed with Coca-Cola and she's featured on Regular Coke cans here. She's the gal on this page in the red dress.

Haifa Wahbe: According to a Syrian friend of mine, women more or less hate Haifa. She's got the bad-girl vibe, distinct or opposite from Nancy.

Elissa: She's not bad and has a better voice than Nancy and Haifa. She's on Team-Pepsi and I've seen a commercial with her and the paragon of virtue and chastity, Christina Aguilera, singing and laughing and drinking Pepsi.

Amr Diab: According to an Arab-American friend of mine, Amr Diab is the ‘Ricky Martin of the Middle East.’ Although, to be fair, this guy has more staying power and perhaps talent, but does have that slick, greasy Ricky Martin way about him. Also signed with Team-Pepsi.

Ruby: Ruby is from Egypt. Here’s an article about how she’s pushing the envelope . . . although not musically like, say, an Arab Pop version of John Cage. Nope. She's closer to dancing in a Cage and looking for Johns than she is to 4"33". I don't think she has put any music out for a while - so maybe I'm behind the trend on this one.




Two Thoughts on Music before I depart:

1. I've noticed that a full credit reel follows every music video produced in the Arab world. Not only are we told the name of the director as well as the entire musical production team, but we are also kindly given the name of the catering company, gaffer, and big boy.


2.
(AN OPEN LETTER TO SYRIA)

Dear Syria:

I love your country. I've had a wonderful time here and I consider it my adopted home. I'm several months from leaving and I'm already sad that I have to go. HOWEVER, I have one minor request.

I've been subjected to the song CARELESS WHISPER by WHAM every other day since I've been here: I'm talking at least four to five times a week. I wish this was hyperbole, but sadly I've started counting.

NOTE TO READER *I'm also counting the acoustic or instrumental cover of this song in my poll.

Anyway, I cannot express how much I hate this song. I didn't like it the first time I heard it, but enough is enough already. Wham released this song almost 20 years ago. This needs to stop. Now. Please. I like Arabic Music - please play Arabic music!

Thank you,

KickySack

Sunday, April 23, 2006

Pets in Syria

Yes, Pets in Syria.

I know what you are thinking, dear reader. I can easily anticipate your reaction. How can this brave young writer possibly churn out such cutting-edge, newsworthy reporting that lackeys in the Major Corporate Media are afraid to touch? You must wonder: how can Kicky Sack put himself in peril just to get the big story, to wrap his Cheetos-stained fingers (© 2006 Frito-Lay North America, Inc.) around throbbing pulse of Syria, check it for ring-worm, and then deliver it to your Personal Computer?

I must admit, such work isn’t easy, for I put myself in the Hot Zone every day, for you dear reader, because I am very hot. (Imagine a fancy flame behind the word Hot, perhaps a target, or some smoke, and of course my handsome profile behind the word Zone)

Yes, to obtain the information on this post - Pets in Syria – I had to go undercover as a short-haired Schnauzer and endure eating my own feces for three days as a means not to ‘blow’ my cover; I was forced to kidnap myself at gun-point; driven to hand out bribes to several top-pet store owners; needlessly kill seven cats; and go as an embedded reporter with the 5th Armed Battalion of Large-Animal Veterinarians; and feed a suitcase full of Sodium Pentothal (a trademark of Abbott Laboratories) to an unsuspecting camel. So you better enjoy this post.

So what is the scoop on pets in Syria?

Dogs: Not a lot of dogs here. This is a cultural/religious thing. On one hand, saying ‘what up, dog’ to someone in Arabic does not go over well here. In terms of religion, dogs are not looked upon with warmth in some Islamic circles. This, however, does not imply that they deserve death, as some Imams have taught, but rather they might not be deserving of $2,000 worth of dental work to reset an unfortunate over-bite as sometimes occurs in the United States. The small Christian areas do, however, have ‘inside dogs’ and people walk around with dogs from time to time. Also, more upper-class Muslim areas also have people with dogs every once and awhile. (I'm sure I'll get some e-mail for this whole dog and Islam talk . . . believe it or not, I've actually read a fair amount about this issue - here's a link before you get all huffy at me:
http://www.islamicconcern.com/dogs.asp) (sorry, I couldn't get the hyperlink to work - so cut and paste)

Cats: I live next to a cat farm. Not an official cat farm, but more of a cat settlement or perhaps retirement home. Cats are very powerful here. I think they are Unionized. Once a week two old ladies come along with big bags of meat and feed the cats, then the cats shit everywhere.

Birds: Lots of birds in cages hanging around in public here. I, for one, hate birds. I don’t mind flying birds but I can’t deal with them up close. In short, they freak me out and I’m a little afraid of them. I’m not joking.

Anyway, my neighbor has a whole pigeon . . .I’m not sure what to call it . . . collection? No. Team? Well, he makes them fly around and come back and he whistles at them like a basketball coach, but team doesn’t work. Flock, he has a flock. Sorry, dear reader, my English is deserting me while my Arabic is only decent: this is the hellish linguistic nightmare that I call my life.

Whatever, the man has got a lot of birds and most afternoons he’s out on his roof sending them around bringing them back. I’ve heard about some fierce competition between people who do this – that people ‘steal’ each other’s birds and sometimes this causes some strife and arguments. I can’t independently verify this information. But let us pretend it is true for the sake of entertainment.


Camels: No one has a pet camel in Damascus. I know horrible and racist Middle East stereotypes often involve camels, but I’ve only seen Syrians making money off this western notion at tourist sites: trying to entice one into agreeing to an expensive ride. That being said, some of the Gulf satellite stations show camel racing and then a pack of SUV’s outside the track, following the camels and kicking up dust. I actually enjoy watching these races on the TV and hopefully I’ll be able to catch a real-life race one of these days.

Friday, April 07, 2006

5 Random Thoughts on Life in Syria

1.
Socks!!! I don’t know why, but I find that everyone is trying to sell me socks on the streets of Damascus. I’ve never been anywhere where socks are so readily available. I’m always confronted with little old men, chain-smoking and trying to hawk socks. I’ve bought a few pairs. Not bad.

2.
I went to a very nice restaurant recently and noticed something rather odd. The restaurant is pretty ‘high-class’ and I even know some kids from Austria who saw the Syrian President dining with his family at this place – point being that this place isn’t Applebee’s or some shithole. Anyway, we finish a great meal and the always-hovering ‘staff’ begins to clear the table. In some ‘fine dining establishments’ in the States I’ve seen waiters with ‘crumbers’ these little things that quietly pick up bits of food on the table. Well, this restaurant doesn’t do ‘quietly’ . . . after we finished our meal (which was amazing by the way – the food here is by and large good, I’ve been impressed) I noticed this waiter with a ‘dust-buster’ in hand. Yes, dear reader, he DUST-BUSTED the table of loose crumbs. It was very loud and I was beyond entertained. I love this kind of stuff.

3.
Straws. I don’t know why – but Syrians seem to love straws. Maybe this is more common all over the world and this isn’t a Syrian or even a Middle East thing – I don’t know. I do know this: waiters in restaurants look at me like I’m a freak-show when I don’t use my straw. Even if I only bought a soft drink in a store, I find that the man behind the counter tries (in vain) to give me a straw. I hate using straws in ‘open’ containers. If I’ve got a lid, sure, gimme a straw. Milkshakes – okay, I can see the need of a straw there. But a straw for everything? Not into it.

4.
Eyebrows up, sometimes accompanied by a click of the mouth means NO: I’ve been here a few months and I’m sometimes still a bit slow to read this one. I’ll say a destination to a cab-driver and rather than saying “No” in Arabic or shaking his head, he’ll give me a “eyebrows-up-whatever-look” and sometimes it takes me a few beats to recognize that he said “No – I’m not going that way.” From what I understand, this is a Syrian thing, rather than the spread across the whole Arab world. I can’t wait to take this back to America and offend strangers and friends.

5.
Sometimes when I’m chatting with Syrians, not necessarily friends but random people in restaurants, shops, cabs, etc., I’m confronted with “Which is better?” question. “Are the girls prettier here or in America?” “Do you like America or Syria more?” I hate this line of questioning. I don’t want to measure these things and even if I did, I wouldn’t know what criteria to use. I mean, what would I say? . . . . . . . . YES! I’ve found that Syrian woman score higher on the beauty per-cubic inch index than their American counter-parts? Or, I like America more because the soft-serve ice cream is 2.3 times better in terms of richness and smoothness when compared to leading Syrian vendors?

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Bird Flu . . . .


Sure, I’ve seen some fairly attractive illustrated chickens in my life – but wow-wow-whee-wow, this one is stunning. I adore her long lashes. I’m captivated by her delicately applied lipstick, which extenuates her lovely, lush, yellow beak. And those weird red things – perhaps anatomically part of a chicken – make for beautiful pseudo-earrings. Yes reader, I’m smitten.
And yes, ‘eatable’ is the Arabic message and this is an image from the World Health Organization (in partnership with the Syrian government Ministries of Agriculture and Health) which features – on the other side – a message to reassure people that eating chicken is safe despite a world-wide concern over Bird Flu. I took this cartoon of ‘Daisy-the-Chicken’ home with me from a restaurant here in Damascus. (I named her Daisy – she was not named in the info on the back)
After the outbreak in Turkey, many Syrians worried that the pandemic would jump the boarder and inflect the chicken population here. Furthermore, it is common among the Christian community to give children eggs/little-chickens as part of the whole Easter re-birth motif. However, I’ve been told that due to Bird Flu I shouldn’t expect such fun this year. I’ve also been told that the kids spray paint the chickens and often accidentally kill them. So I’m a tad disappointed that this Easter I’ll miss-out on little pink and purple chickens running around before facing accidental death at the hands of children.
Anyway, I need to do a better job at asking more people about chicken so I can appraise the effectiveness of the World Health Organization’s ‘up-with-chickens-campaign’. I’m a bit skeptical, however, due to the culture of conspiracy theories and disinformation, as to how easily people here can be persuaded by official information coming from a big international organization. (Not a lot of love for the UN over here during the last year). All that being said, people are certainly eating chicken in public and perhaps in private as well. When it comes down to it, I think that every population has a set of similar ‘personality-types’: the same kind of folks who shunned beef during our minor mad-cow outbreak in America have neurotic counterparts in Syria, who are likewise shying away from any and all things with feathers.

For the record: I eat chicken here and I like it. I mean, look at Daisy – what’s there not to love?

Friday, February 24, 2006

A Brief Thought . . . .

The following is an excerpt of a Nagib Mahfouz (Egyptian novelist and winner of the 1982 Nobel Prize in Literature) from Hisham Sharabi’s Neopatriarchy: A Theory of Distorted Change in Arab Society . . .


"He leads a contemporary [i.e., “modern”] life. He obeys civil and penal laws of Western origin and is involved in a complex tangle of social and economic transactions and is never certain to what extent these agree with or contradict his Islamic creed. Life carries him along in its current and he forgets his misgivings for a time until one Friday he hears the imam or reads the religious page in one of the papers, and the old misgivings come back with a certain fear. He realizes that in this new society he has been afflicted with a split personality: half of him believes, prays, fasts, and makes the pilgrimage. The other half renders his values void in banks and courts and in the streets, even in the cinemas and theaters, and perhaps even at home among his family before the television set."


While Mahfouz wrote this years ago, it still applies to what I see in Syrian and Arab society. Recently I was out to lunch with an Arab Christian in one of the many dinning establishments in Damascus. And as nearly all of the ‘modernized’ dinning establishments that feature versions upon western themed food, this place had a television and was tuned to one of the 20 or so main Arab Music Video channels. Amidst video after video full teeming with sexuality, I heard the call to prayer echo from one, then another mosque around the neighborhood. After a little bit, one the waiters turned the channel to what I’m sure was a Saudi based-station, for the afternoon prayer. As soon as the prayer was over, he flipped back to Western inspired, Arab-interpreted, music television – brimming with breasts and gyrating hips. I began to laugh and was asked, “What is so funny?” I explained that I found the juxtaposition between half-naked music videos and religiosity (which implicitly upholds “the modest’ and ‘the chaste’ as virtues for women) without even a pause, without even a cursory nod to a glaring contradiction, struck me as hilarious. She found it funny after I explained it, and said: “yah, you get so used to these things that it doesn’t even seem weird . . .“ I don’t know if I’ll ever get used to it.

Monday, February 06, 2006

Who's Afraid of Norway?

So the following is from the front page of the Sunday Times of London. I know this guy in the article, Evan Nord, from my Arabic courses. I'm not going to go into this issue too much here. Here's a few thoughts, however, just in case you are wondering.

1. Damascus is covered with signs that tell all Syrians to avoid the following Danish companies . . . well, I can't name them because I never heard of any of them except for Legos!!

2. Lately, I've been feeling a bit of Schadenfreude with this whole 'cartoon' upheaval. I tell the kids from the EU: Hey, welcome the American reality in the middle east: most disfavored nation(s) status.

3. Sorry for the lack of posting on the blog . . . I've been busy with school and social stuff and mostly (however) Arabic. . . More to come, I promise.




The Sunday Times - World


The Sunday Times February 05, 2006


Focus: Freedom v faith: the firestorm
Not since the Salman Rushdie affair have secular Europe and Islam traded insults so vehemently. Stuart Wavell on the cartoons that threaten to force us apart


A small child led the religious chanting as the crowd converged on the French embassy in Damascus. They had come from the mosque where a preacher had inveighed against the "blasphemous cartoons" in Europe. It was not a wise place for a Norwegian to be.
By publishing Danish caricatures of the prophet Muhammad, a Norwegian newspaper had helped to pitch Europe into the worst cultural clash between Islamic religious beliefs and western freedom of expression since Salman Rushdie's book The Satanic Verses in 1989.



Even Nord, a Norwegian visitor to the local university, was curious to see the demonstration. Reaching the embassy, those in front began to scuffle with a line of police and the crowd's anger grew.

Then, without warning, a Syrian grabbed Nord and addressed the crowd: "This is my friend. He is a Norwegian and a good man."

A pin's drop could have been heard as a menacing silence came over the crowd. The Syrian then hoisted the Norwegian on to his shoulders and commanded: "Speak for your country."

The student surveyed his hostile audience for a moment before addressing them in Arabic. "This is just an embassy," he said in a loud, clear voice. "It is not the country. This incident is the result of lack of understanding. We need to understand each other better and then hopefully we will have the chance to live in togetherness and we can show proper respect for you. Inshallah (God willing)!" The crowd roared in approval. But the goodwill did not last: yesterday they set fire to the Danish, Norwegian and Swedish embassies.

Monday, January 30, 2006

KFC - Round Two

Last night I was walking with a British friend of mine by the KFC and noticed a 'protest' of sorts: posters, banners, a guy with a megaphone and a substantial police presence standing guard. Despite what I expected to be an 'anti-american' flavor of this protest, I couldn't help but walk into the crowd and ask the protesters a few questions. As I've reported on this blog before, Syrians have been so forward about distinguishing their political views as aimed towards American policy and not as an attack on the American people; thus, i felt totally safe and without concern walking into this 'gathering'. I was also wearing my Syrian Flag scarf, literally 'wrapping myself' in Syrian nationalism - so I thought, correctly, that it would be no problem.

Most of the protesters were university students and I sought out a group of them and started asking some questions about what they were protesting; why they were protesting; what group the were involved in and what they thought about KFC coming to Syria.

Side Point I: Fighting my inner-nature and overwhelming impulse to confront with open debate and exchange, I wisely limited myself to asking questions. I cannot and do not "take the gloves off" in matters of politics - sometimes this makes me sad.

Side Point II Conversations like this are NOT the place to practice my Arabic. I don't want to be misunderstood or misinterpreted. Plus, I can control the conversation if i stick to English. Some occasions require such linguistic advantage. I can get all the Arabic I want out of other exchanges less fraught with politics and police and emotions.

Anyway, a group of Syrians - both guys and girls - seemed more than happy to entertain my questions. To the question - of which I knew the answer and expected the standard talking points for - Why are you protesting KFC? They responded with something like this: "We don't want any money to go to the American government who gives money to Israel and kills our people in Palestine and Iraq". I then asked them if they knew that the company was Kuwaiti and most of the money would go to the Gulf, they replied that they know that a certain percentage of the profit goes to the company. This was good, confirming that I was dealing with fairly informed and educated protesters. They asked me where I was from and I told them: America. They then told me, nearly falling over each other and in several different ways, that they love the american people and they didn't want to hurt my feelings or for me to see this as a personal attack on americans. Then they pointed out my Syrian scarf and seemed very pleased that I was wearing it. "Syria is my home this year" I told them. I then asked: "So then you guys are also for boycotting all american products, right" And they nodded and said yes. I said "Pepsi and Coke and Microsoft?" They roundly agreed until I got to Microsoft, saying: "Science and technology is different - we need and want our country to progress!" And then a girl whipped out an Arabic edition of "Scientific American" and showed it to me. I was polite and told them that avoiding KFC is a good thing to do because: "This is part of the reason that some Americans are very very fat". They were all very kind and sweet. While we were having this conversation someone who was wearing a leather jacket and had shinny shoes on stood close by and listened. I knew that he was much more concerned with what the Syrians were saying than what I was saying. . . thus I couldn't ask questions that could potentially moved them away from from nationalist talking points and thus get them into trouble.